The History of Unpaid Labor in The Hospitality Industry and New Ways to Address It
In the fine dining world, the practice of staging has long been a rite of passage for aspiring chefs and hospitality professionals. The term, derived from the French 'stagiaire,' meaning trainee or intern, traditionally involves working unpaid for a period of time in a restaurant kitchen to learn and demonstrate one's skills. This practice is increasingly criticized for its exploitative nature as it demands uncompensated, rigorous labor. Moreover, it perpetuates economic gatekeeping in fine dining, limiting these roles to those with the means to work without pay.
Throughout my culinary journey, witnessing the exploitative practices in staging and trailing sparked a desire to better the working conditions for all within the industry. Drawing inspirations from my tech background, an idea hit me: Why not create a website where food and drink workers can anonymously, yet openly, share insights about their employers? This led me to create KitchenConfidentials.com, a place where restaurant workers can safely and anonymously share their experiences. With each new piece of knowledge added to KitchenConfidentials.com, it will become exponentially easier to avoid the employers who don't value their workers and support those that treat their employees fairly!
The History of Staging
Staging has its roots firmly in the regimented brigade system introduced by Georges Auguste Escoffier. Dating back centuries, aspiring chefs would embark on a journey, offering their services in a variety of kitchens, without pay, to master diverse cooking styles and techniques. Drawing upon Escoffier's military background, this system mirrored the hierarchical structure and discipline of an army regiment, a characteristic still widely prevalent in modern kitchens.
Escoffier's brigade system, founded on principles of imperialist European practices, structured kitchen staff like a military unit, with each individual assigned specific duties. It was a means to streamline and increase efficiency within the chaotic kitchen environment, but it also marked the onset of many of the labor issues we observe in today's culinary industry. The culture of unquestioned obedience, prioritizing the needs of the 'regiment' – the kitchen – above personal health and well-being, has persisted, creating a work environment that can often be challenging and, at times, detrimental to the individuals working within it.
Ripe for Abuse
Whether in a fine dining establishment or a casual eatery, the practice of 'staging' and 'trailing' is prevalent, acting as a rite of passage in an industry known for its intense competition and high entry barriers. The practice extends to all corners of the hospitality industry, regardless of the level of prestige. 'Staging,' historically a long-term commitment, involves working unpaid in kitchens to gain exposure to different cooking styles and techniques. On the other hand, 'trailing' typically involves potential employees working a single unpaid shift as a form of real-time interview. This 'trial shift' both tests the skills of the candidate and provides a taste of the restaurant's work environment. Both are usually unpaid.
Despite the ubiquity of these practices, they pose significant labor issues, often placing aspiring employees in a vulnerable position within a culture that expects work without immediate compensation, starting the workers off from an already exploited place.
In the realm of high-end fine dining, an unseen army of stagiaires may spend countless hours picking herbs, tourne-ing potatoes, and performing other meticulous preparations, mostly unpaid and under harsh conditions. Conversely, even in more laid-back settings, job seekers are asked to prove their worth in the heat of service, working a shift without compensation.
These extended, unpaid hours reflect a culture that demands not only commitment but also an acceptance of exploitation as a rite of passage. This often goes unrecognized by patrons, who are unaware of the significant toll and effort behind each culinary experience, irrespective of the establishment's prestige.
This practice perpetuates a culture of abuse and overwork in the hospitality industry. It places workers in a vulnerable position, compelling them to tolerate potentially unfair treatment for the sake of learning, opportunity, and getting their foot in the door.
A Shift in Perspective: From Tech to Restaurants
My own journey from the tech industry to restaurant work brought these issues into sharp focus. In tech, where I began my career, the concept of working for free is generally regarded as exploitative. Talent is recognized and compensated accordingly and it should be in the restaurant industry too.
Working in the hospitality industry has been eye-opening. Witnessing the stark contrast in work culture and practices, particularly around staging, was disconcerting. It struck me as an ingrained form of exploitation, masquerading as tradition. It is clear that this antiquated system needs a serious overhaul.
The Inspiration Behind KitchenConfidentials.com
This realization sparked the idea for KitchenConfidentials.com. I envisioned a platform that would empower hospitality workers by giving them the information they needed to make informed decisions about their careers. So I created a space for workers to anonymously share their experiences. By bringing transparency to the industry, I believe we can change the narrative and challenge the status quo.
KitchenConfidentials.com is my contribution to making the restaurant industry a better place. It's a space where workers can read and write reviews about employers, understand the realities of different workplaces, and make choices based on real experiences, rather than promises. It's a space where your voice matters, where your experiences count, and where we believe in creating a fairer, more equitable industry.
The practice of staging and unpaid labor is deeply entrenched, but that doesn't mean it's unchangeable. By sharing our experiences and raising our collective voices, we can challenge these outdated traditions. We can shape an industry where opportunity doesn't come at the expense of fair treatment or pay. Together, we can create a hospitality industry that truly values its most important ingredient: its people.